Sunday, May 28, 2023

May 28, 2023 - Palmanova, Italy

 Last night we stayed in Skradin, Croatia after leaving Dubrovnik. There were no issues, nice weather and we arrived at our hotel by mid-afternoon.  Some of the views along the Adriatic coast were beautiful.  The traffic and wind got a little heavy at times so Sooz didn't take a lot of pictures.  

Today we left Skradin around 7:30 am and rode about 300 miles and crossed 2 borderless national borders - Croatia to Slovenia and then Slovenia to Italy.  Since all 3 countries are in the EU there were really no borders, we slowed down to go through previously active customs/immigration checks but never had to stop.

The roads today were almost entirely 4-laned divided expressway quality.  They were toll roads so we had to stop periodically to pay tolls but otherwise we kept up a decent pace for most of the day.

Palmanova is a town and comune in northeast Italy. The town is an example of a star fort of the late Renaissance, built up by the Venetian Republic in 1593.  The fortifications were included in UNESCO's World Heritage Site list as part of Venetian Works of Defence between the 16th and 17th centuries: Stato da Terra – western Stato da Mar in 2017.  

Tomorrow we will head north towards Switzerland and the Alps.  I'm not sure how far we will get but we will probably need the heated gear before the day is over.


Leaving Dubrovnik we saw several yachts cruising up the coast.



Coastal highway looking inland



Coastal highway heading north from Dubrovnik



Sooz checking out part of the downtown area of Palmanova.



Palmanova downtown center



The downtown plan for Palmanova - this is for my planning buddy Marty.



Google Maps view of downtown Palmanova and the pizza restaurant where we had dinner.



Authentic Italian pizza!  Delicious.


Thursday, May 25, 2023

May 25, 2023 - Dubrovnik, Croatia

 I'm catching up for a couple of days.  We left Perast, Montenegro 2 days ago and rode to Dubrovnik.  We crossed from Montenegro to Croatia with no problems or delays, it was very easy.  I must add that I never did get motorcycle insurance for Montenegro.  We were there during their Independence Day holiday and all offices were closed.  There were no options other than to not ride and I chose to ride.  The hardest part of leaving Perast was carrying the bags up about 1,000 stone steps to where our motorcycle was parked.

Today, we played tourist and spent all day in Old Town Dubrovnik.  In 1979, the city of Dubrovnik was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in recognition of its outstanding medieval architecture and fortified old town.  Of course, parts of The Game of Thrones were filmed here.

We are staying in an Airbnb on the outskirts of the Old Town making it substantially less expensive than staying in the Old Town, but meaning we have over 600 steps, and I mean stone steps, to get to the main tourist area.  Last night we walked to a local market that was "close" after which we decided we were not going to walk to the downtown.  My legs are definitely stronger, but not that strong, so we Uber'd for 7 Euro, or about $8.00 US - well worth it.

We bought a pass for 35 Euro each which allowed us to walk along the top of the wall around the downtown and entry to the many museums and tourist spots.  Yes, they charge to walk the wall, which I might add, includes hundreds of more stone steps, up and down.  It was a beautiful day which made the wall walk impressive.  The scale of the stone structure is impressive.

Our day pass also allowed free travel on the city busses so we jumped on one for a cheap tour of the city.  We jumped off next to a nice restaurant in the business section and had a great meal.

Tomorrow, I think we will dial it back a little and take the bike for a short ride to a local beach and lay low.  I'm not complaining, so don't take this the wrong way, but traveling is very tiring, especially in a foreign land where everything is new and takes extra energy for the simplest of tasks such as figuring out where to pick up a bus and which bus to take.  Everything takes more time.



Me, surveying my domain in Perast.



Our apartment in Perast included full use of our own Tesla (toaster).







We had a wonderful fish dinner our final night in Perast.  Our waiter George, and the grill-magician whose name we did not get, helped us select a fish, grill it over a wood fire and then cleaned and served it at our table.  



Our Airbnb in Dubrovnik, small but functional, includes free use of a bicycle.



Walking to the "close" market on our first day in Dubrovnik.





The owner of our Airbnb in Dubrovnik and me waiting for the Uber to take Sooz and me downtown.  He speaks English pretty well and we had a nice chat solving many of the world's problems - I consider him an honorary member of the Gainesville Geezers.  A good guy whose monthly pension totals 362 Euro so he and his family use the Airbnb to supplement their income.


Sooz walking up the stone steps to the top of the wall.

We made it to the top of the wall.

Looking down from the wall.

Looking away from the wall towards Fort Lovrijenac and the Adriatic Sea.

Another view of Fort Lovrijenac and part of the Old Town.

The view from the wall is spectacular looking back at the Old Town.

Walking on the wall.

Walking down from the wall.

An iron chest from the middle ages.

A museum in a tunnel showing pictures from the "Hometown War" in the 1990s.  Dubrovnik was heavily shelled during the war.

One of the many freshwater fountains we used to fill our water bottles.


Inside the Franciscan Church and Monastery in the Old Town.  The marble pulpit survived the earthquake of 1667. The main altar with the statue of the resurrected Christ between four twisted marble columns was created by the sculptor Celia from Ancona in 1713.

Tuesday, May 23, 2023

May 23, 2023 - Perast, Montenegro

 Tonight is our second and final night in Perast, Montenegro on the Bay of Kotor.  It's a beautiful location and we have a nice little apartment with a view of the water.  The only challenge is that motor vehicles are not allowed in Perast so we had to park at a small parking area above our apartment and carry our bags down several levels of winding, stone, narrow steps most of which had not railings.  I'm not sure my knees will ever be the same especially after I carry them back up those same steps tomorrow.

Today, we took a short cab ride to the Old Town of Kotor.  People have been building forts here since the 500s.  Kotor has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic and is a double Unesco World Heritage Site.  Kotor has a large population of cats that have become a symbol of the city. The city has several cat stores and a cat museum, as well as the Cats' Square.

We had a very nice lunch in the Old Town and met a wonderful couple from one of the cruise ships in port.  Their names were Bill and Andrea, originally from the UK and now living in Australia.  We must have spoken with them for over one solid hour before they had to return to their ship to sail off to Sicily.

Tomorrow, we cross the border from Montenegro to Croatia for 3 nights in Dubrovnik.  



This is Sooz just after we parked the bike in Perast, looking down at the Bay of Kotor.  She is smiling because she knows her sore back will mean that I will carry our bags down the many stone steps to our apartment.



Looking out at the Bay of Kotor from the pedestrian-only streets of Perast.



Ice cream even makes Perast look better.







Various views of Kotor Bay from our apartment.











Various shots from the Old Town of Kotor including one of the famous Kotor Cats, a cruise ship in port, Susie at Lunch and a nice selection of GSs from an Italian motorcycle tour company.


Sunday, May 21, 2023

May 21, 2023 - Zabljak, Montenegro

 After waking up in Pluzine we had a great breakfast and hit the road for Zabljak.  On paper, the ride was around 30 miles and took us about 1.5 hours.  However, the ride was spectacular and a little nerve wracking at times.

We took the P14 mountain road through Durmitor National Park reaching over 6,200 feet elevation.  The road was paved, one-lane, with very few guardrails.  There was not much traffic but when there were oncoming cars we slowed way down and held to our side of the paved surface.  

The beginning of the road included several fairly short, but very dark/black tunnels.  The tunnels had no lighting, rock walls, and no striping or reflectors.  It was pitch black.  When we entered the first tunnel I thought the bike's headlight was out, it wasn't.  I switched on the bright beam and raised my tinted visor and continued on.  It was spooky dark.

It was easy to understand why Google Maps showed less than 30 miles but taking 1.5 hours.  I kept our speed between 25-30 miles for the entire ride.  We never passed anyone and only had one group of idiot motorcyclists go zooming past us - later passing them when they stopped to take some pictures of themselves playing in the snow.  In some areas, the cross-winds were strong but didn't last long.  Temperatures dipped to 50 degrees at the highest elevations.  

Enjoy the photos below, all of which, except for 1 or 2, were taken by Sooz while riding on the back of the bike!

Tomorrow we head south to Perast on the Kotor Bay for 2 nights.



Our breakfast this morning.  The menu called them pancakes - crepe-like flat cakes, rolled with cheese and bacon in the middle then fried with breadcrumbs.  Very tasty.  Of course, I ate both of mine but, Sooz could only eat one.


Approaching a tunnel




In the middle of a tunnel



Exiting a tunnel


The following pictures were taken, by Sooz while riding on the back of the motorcycle, along the P14 road.












Sooz taking in the scenery


Sooz taking in the scenery