Monday, July 31, 2023

July 31, 2023 - Tintagel, Cornwall, England

 Our big adventure today was visiting Tintagel Castle.  The castle has a long association with legends related to King Arthur. This was first recorded in the 12th century when Geoffrey of Monmouth described Tintagel as the place of Arthur's conception in his mythological account of British history, Historia Regum Britanniae.  

It surprised us that there is really no castle.  There are remains and remnants, but no real castle left, just ruins.

Tintagel Castle has been a tourist destination since the mid-19th century. Owned by William, Prince of Wales as part of the landholdings of the Duchy of Cornwall, the site is managed by English Heritage.

The weather was perfect for England, low 60s and rain.  We were able to walk from our room, down a steep hill, up steep steps, down more steps and crossing wet, sandy rocks and then walking back uphill to our room.  We were wet and chilled by the time we got back.  Weirdly, we were chilled, and sweating at the same time.

We walked across the pedestrian castle bridge to get from the mainland to the castle.  




Not a warm, dry or happy camper walking to the castle



Approaching the castle bridge



Sooz (on the right facing away) casually crossing the bridge



This is the "castle".  Not much to see other than ruins with a fantastic view






Bundled up at the castle




Putting on a good face for the steep, wet, rock steps





The Queen of Tintagel reviewing her subjects on the beach





One big English bird (pidgeon)



Where's my sticky toffee pudding?



Earned dessert - sticky toffee pudding

Sunday, July 30, 2023

July 30, 2023 - Tintagel, England - Port Isaac (Doc Martin)

 The weather forecast for today was 70, partly cloudy with minimal chance of rain.  Guess what?  This is England, so it was low 60s, windy and rainy.  We didn't have far to ride, just to the other side of Cornwall, first to visit Port Isaac, the town where the TV series Doc Martin was filmed, and then on to Tintagel where we are staying 2 nights.  

The "roads" between Port Isaac and Tintagel were very narrow, single-laned, two-way traffic, with 8-10 foot high hedges on both sides, blind corners, hairpin turns, mixed with wind and rain.  Kind of stressful on the GS, but we did good.  The English drivers are so used to these roads and conditions that they don't even slow down most of the time. They sometimes turn in to miniscule pull-over areas, flash their lights for us to keep going, or they just keep going, not slowing down, figuring we're just a motorcycle and can squeeze by.

For my brother Ted - the REGULAR GS did great.  I think the GS Adventure is too wide and bulky to run on these narrow roads, thank you.  



Horse trailer on the 2-way, single-laned, hedge-lined road between Port Isaac and Tintagel.  This photo was taken by Sooz, while riding on the back seat, in the rain!



If you ever watched Doc Martin, you will recognize this building as the Doc's surgery (doctor office)



Port Isaac, or what was called Port Wenn, in the Doc Martin series



Me disappointed not seeing Doc Martin



This shop was filled with Doc Martin paraphernalia 



Sooz wondering why they don't trim their hedges in England



Sooz telling me to hurry up in Port Isaac



Port Isaac



Hotel check-in at the Cornishman Inn, Tintagel


Friday, July 28, 2023

July 28, 2023 - Falmouth - Land's End

 Today we rode southwest to Land's End from Falmouth.  Along the way, we passed through Mousehole, Porthcurno, Land's End and Cape Cornwall.  The round trip took about 5 hours and it did not rain at all.  Temps were in the 60s-70s with little wind.  Roads varied from 4-lane divided A30 at 70 mph to single lane hairpin turns in 1st gear.  Traffic was pretty heavy at times.

We had a light lunch at a small cafe in the Porthcurno Telegraph Museum - nothing special but it was a nice place to stop and people watch.  This is peak holiday time for the Brits.  School is out and everyone took off for a long weekend, or more.  



Main entrance to Land's End



There were a few other motorcycles to keep the GS company while we walked around.  One of the guys parked next to us was British but living in The Villages, just south of Gainesville.


This is for Fred.  If you look very close in the middle of the picture, you can see a pin on the green of a golf course with the Celtic Sea in the background.



"Dangerous Cliffs"



Longships Lighthouse 



Sooz looking great.



Sooz walking along The End



Land's End path



Typical one-lane, two-way road along the coast


Tuesday, July 25, 2023

July 25, 2023 - Falmouth, Cornwall, England

 Saturday morning July 22, we left Poachers Inn and headed towards the port town of Plymouth, Devon, England.  We are learning to use, and better understand, how locals describe where they are located.  In the US, we tend to just identify the city, and state if needed.  For example, we say we are from Gainesville, Florida.  In the UK, they identify the ceremonial county first, in contrast to the cities or metropolitan and non-metropolitan counties of England used for local government. When people asked us where we were going next, we would say Plymouth, which is a city, and they would say, "Oh, Devon is nice."  Plymouth is in the ceremonial county of Devon.  It's very confusing.  

If you think that is confusing, listen to this podcast describing the distinctions between the UK, Britain, British Isles, England, Wales, Scotland, the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

The city of Falmouth, where we will be for the next 5 days, is in the ceremonial county of Cornwall, where Cornish things are from. We hope to use Falmouth as a base for exploring some of the small coastal towns in southwest England, including Lands End.  

I got sidetracked describing ceremonial counties, and meant to give a brief description of our ride from Poachers Inn in Piddletrenthide, Dorchester, in the ceremonial county of Dorset, to Plymouth.  It was a tough ride of only 150 miles, but it took us over 4 hours.  The weather was nasty, upper 50s temp, rainy the entire time, very windy and lots of traffic.  By the time we got to Plymouth, we were both soaked, exhausted and didn't do a whole lot the 3 days we were there.  We had a nice Airbnb, except for the plumbing system which forced water out of the sink and shower drain when we flushed the toilet, and sounded like a 747 coming in to land.

Today, we rode in beautiful weather - mid-60s, mostly sunny, no wind and little traffic - from Plymouth to Falmouth in Cornwall.  Our Airbnb is really nice, small, but nice, with a view of the bay and estuary called Carrick Roads.  Carrick Roads is fed by the River Fal, namesake of Falmouth.  Falmouth has a permanent population of about 25,000.  

On 2 October 1836 HMS Beagle anchored at Falmouth at the end of her noted survey voyage around the world. That evening, Charles Darwin left the ship and took the Mail coach to his family home at The Mount, Shrewsbury.  Between 1943 and 1944, Falmouth was a base for American troops preparing for the D-Day invasions.  Falmouth is famous for its harbour. Together with Carrick Roads, it forms the third deepest natural harbour in the world, and the deepest in Western Europe.



Carrick Roads in Falmouth



Carrick Roads in Falmouth



Downtown Falmouth



I couldn't resist taking this photo of Sooz scounging through the topcase, with an actually nice looking McDonald's in Plymouth's open pedestrian area.



The Leviathan by Brian Fell at Plymouth, near the Mayflower Steps and Museum



We took this fine selfie standing on the Mayflower Steps from which the Pilgrim Fathers are believed to have finally left England aboard the Mayflower on 6 September 1620, before crossing the Atlantic Ocean to settle in North America. The traditional site of their disembarkation in North America is Plymouth Rock.



Entrance to Mayflower Museum



It was interesting learning about American history as described in the UK.  We learned some new things also, like the Mayflower initially left port with another ship, but the other ship had to turn back.




Sooz, The Thinker, while having a nice dinner in downtown Plymouth



Apparently, zebras are a thing in downtown Plymouth



Looking down at the GS after we arrived in Plymouth.  I eventually went down and covered her up and put her to bed, but she was still wet for several days.

Friday, July 21, 2023

July 21, 2023 - Piddletrenthide, England

 Max and Ash left Cardiff yesterday and took a train to London.  They fly back to Florida Saturday afternoon.  It was great spending time with them in Wales and I think they had a good time too.  They wore Sooz and me out.  After picking up the GS and turning in the rental car, we crashed.

We left our place in Cardiff around 10 am and rode two hours to see the Cerne Giant.  It's part of the British National Trust.  You can barely see it in our picture, but it is an ancient naked figure sculpted into the chalk hillside above Cerne Abbas.  Standing at 180 feet tall the Cerne Giant is Britain’s largest chalk hill figure and perhaps the best known.  Many theories have surrounded the giant’s identity and origins, including ancient symbol of spirituality, likeness of the Greco-Roman hero Hercules, mockery of Oliver Cromwell and fertility aid. In 2021, after extensive scientific analysis, National Trust archaeologists concluded the giant was probably first constructed in the late Saxon period, over 1,000 years ago.  It's kind of taken on a life of its own.

From there we headed for lunch at Feed the Soul.  It's a small health food store and restaurant.  The parking lot had BMWs, Jaguars and Land Rovers, so there must be some money in the area.  The food was good, but not very filling.

After lunch, we rode 6 miles to the Poachers Inn, where we had dinner, will stay the night and have breakfast in the morning before we head out to Plymouth.  As soon as we parked, the owner, Nigel, came out to welcome us and show us his 2 motorcycles - a classic Triumph 900 and an old Honda 250 scrambler.  He walked us into the reception area and turned us over to his wife who does all the work.  It is a beautiful inn, restaurant and bar.  For dessert tonight, we had the sticky toffee pudding, a British dessert consisting of a moist sponge cake, made with finely chopped dates, covered in a toffee sauce and served with a vanilla custard or vanilla ice-cream. It is considered a British classic by various culinary experts.  It was delicious.

People bring their dogs everywhere.  In the dining room/bar there were 5 dogs at one point.  The couple seated next to us had a Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge named Tank.  He was very well behaved and tolerated the other dogs.

There was a lot of traffic today riding from Cardiff until we got off the M5 highway.  We later found out that today is the first day of their summer holiday with the kids out of school.  It is England's busiest traffic day.  The weather was beautiful, mid 60's and mostly sunny.



Sooz trying to pick out the Cerne Giant on the poster board not realizing it is on the far hillside





Sooz telling the GS that it can't join us for lunch at Feed the Soul



Inside Feed the Soul restaurant



Poachers Inn



Just outside Poachers Inn



Our sticky toffee pudding dessert